I knew it would be a long day...but I did not know it would be such a long day... I had simple breakfast at the artist's albergo the daughter had put on tv for me, there is a channel dedicated to all things Tuscan... cooking, history, art etc.. it switches from italian to english and back. She tried to explain how Pontedera is home of Vespa (honestly I was not sure if she was referring to an artist by this name or the little scooters? )and that it is a city that has everything one could need. Regional pride was strong in her. She was equally proud of her father, the artist. The house was pretty amazing, not used to seeing so much art outside a gallery or museum. I get the sense her dad taught traditional technique but did modern art privately, there were many paintings and drawings that could have been his wife, in her younger years. I started my walk again around 9;30... the road I had to walk... apparently romantically referred to an old roman road (this means too narrow for today's traffic) by my hostess, was narrow and congested. I think it might be rush hour traffic. It had no curb to speak of. It changed from narrow tree rimmed street to a more industrial highway still no curb. Then a section of strip malls and still no real space for me to walk.. I had very little space as giant trucks hurled by and impatient italian drivers... after an hour I found sanctuary at a road side cafe... I had 26 to 30 kms to Lucca on this highway .. I would have a psychic meltdown if the road did not change soon.. I looked at the map to see if there was any other way to get there. It seemed like there wasn't. And I had not been able to find walking maps in days now. So, I on I went... to my relief slowly the road changed. I got wider and newer... I should mention too, the last two days the first two hours it's grey and hazy and the air pollution from the car just gets trapped so I am inhalling that too... also both days by 11am it seems traffic decreased.. the landscape got greener.. hazy distant hills.. but I was not into the landscape.. I struggled with walking. I was definitely not as fit or into it today and as said it was a long march... slowly the path moved back into winding hill roads.. and once again little charming towns propped up... I stopped frequently just to rest, drink water or coffee or both.. then around three I was ready to find lodging..and food.. but alas as I wound down the hill again all the cafes and restaurants seemed closed it looked like due to lack of business. I did not find an open place till five...i was really foot sore and out of it... the guy there was really nice. He did not have much in food..but I drank a lot of water and he tried to tell me how much further to lodging and also what land marks to look for. He told me I had four more Kms to Lucca and where the lodging would be. Uhg. At my current rate that would be an hour... so... off I went.. I passed his landmarks and had to wait twice for trains to pass and then compete with cars again on narrow roads to get into town... then finally not just one hotel appeared but a cluster... I went for one that looked in my budget, I made a good choice. The young man at the counter was exceptionally chatty and helpful. I realize I have really spoken very little in the last twenty days... he showed me the minutia of the room and pointed out with pride the ''large'' shower... so by usa standards it's large enough to turn around in without bruising your elbows... I showered and looked at the disaster that was my feet... for some reason my little left toe is now having it's issues can not figure out why..i put on sandals and was told were to find dinner... I barely made it through dinner from being tired, than back to room for eve... I had probs falling asleep I think I was kind of wound up from the day... but I had already promised myself I would stay in Lucca for two nights.. so I could sleep in.. I think I walked 30kms, I think, but they were not fun ones at all...
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