This area is hard to clear a lot of distance cuz it's mostly up goat trails hiking so not flat simple roads.. this was also the third day in a row where I did not have to share the road with cars. ..which I thought I was doomed to do for the rest of my italy walk..so that is a bonus
I had breakfast included at hotel so I woofed that down before leaving...and of course last bit of internet. ...the hotel woman let me know there was another option to climbing up and down steep hills for over an hour... I could walk through a tunnel along the beach..she said less views but quicker... so I decided that I had seen plenty of good views recently and the tunnel sounded like a great option... when I came to it...i discovered it was a tunnel just for pedestrians and bicyclists, so it was the best tunnel ever... there were openings between sections of the tunnel so you could see the ocean and craggy cliffs ...the last tunnel had a very dark creepy feel...which was only slightly marred by cheerful children's voices at its end...it was cool though..temperature wise too, it was hot outside... I came to the first town Bonassola in less than 45 minutes.. it like Levanto had that same energy about it...whispering.. 'you want to stay here for a long long time' I did sort of aimless wonder in it, for a while, checking out it's church and eating some pizza....eventually finding the tourist office.... I got info on finding the next trail to Framura... It started out again frighteningly steep and was hard work getting up...but nothing compared to yesterday.... the signs are also getting a little better and trail markers happen frequently enough I dont have to guess. Again the climb up took over an hour and did not level off until the very top of the hill..must be some sort of rule not to start the flat bit till your absolutely to the top...i was not running into anyone on this part of the hike, I was in the woods alone, quite nice.....another hour or so and I ran into a man asking him if the town ahead was Famura since the trail turned into road and there were several options... he was a slightly arrogant german man who apparently lived in this area...at the same time he was kind of talking down to me about my american accent german and my pack size he was also trying to tell me to go this village way up in the hills for some hedonistic party the local socialists were throwing in this really 'authentic' village... if I missed it I was clearly stupid... it did sound interesting but spending time with him did not sound like a cool option... so I decided to head into Framura... it did not dawn on me till he said it that it was the first of May and big socialist party day.
I soon learned that Framura is not one place but a cluster of towns.. so I headed into one called Anzo, I was not sure where to go, lodging did not seem apparent...it was a very quiet non-touristy place, with a bygone era look... like maybe 50 or so years ago it had more glamor, it almost had a haunted feel to it. I was sort of heading down hill towards the beach when I asked a man for directions to Deiva Marina or lodging... he was not sure which way to send me, he thought the road up was closed so he send me down...then I ran into a woman she told me I should not go down...she had spoken to the man and going down would involve walking along rail road tracks and going thru the Galleries, I realized she meant train tunnels and this would not be safe. This woman was super nice, and walked with me a bit giving me directions...So she sent me back up to a town called Setta there I was suppose to ask at the bar-pizzeria for an ostello...so back up again I went... I nice steep stair walk up for another 45min to the next tier... I stopped at this little cafe for water...this town was a bit more touristy in that it was closer to the road and weekender italians were touristing through it..then eventually found the pizzeria..the man there too was really sweet and helpful he called the ostello for me and put me on the phone with the lady but her place was full. He insisted I should not walk to Deiva Marina it was already 4.45 at this point and he said by car road it was 3hours or another 12kms and by trail it was a tough two hours... he tried to have me go to the train station...but then I asked about camping... he made another call, yes the camp ground was open and only 1.5kms away...so he sent me there... it was clear as I was walking towards it that it would rain soon.... when I arrived there finally it was not a fully operational camp ground yet... and not as posh as the one i'd stayed at before... I got some crackers, nuts, and veggies jar for dinner, stuff that was prob on the shelves since last years camp season...... I sat up my tent in order for it to stay upright I absolutely need to stake it..and the ground was hard and rocky so that was a bit of a job...I took what turned out to be a cold shower because I could not figure out the coin machine for heat...and I did not want to get dressed again to ask...then I ate my dinner and got myself organized. It was getting chilly out... so I went to my tent before 8... I was tired... so I decided to lay down..cant really sit up in my tent anyway...and prob passed out by 9.30... I woke a lot, because i sleeping on slightly rocky ground ...but overall slept better than I had in days...ironically ..certainly longer.. there were only two other german girls on this camp ground... oh and it did start raining pretty much with in minutes of me getting into my tent... not hard rain..fortunately.
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